Meeting with the reserve. Memoirs

A.Poznyakov

Full member of the Geographical Society of the USSR,

Заслуженный работник культуры РФ

Посвящается Эдуарду Андреевичу Ирисову

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Вспоминаю одну встречу, that happened to me. Было это в Калининграде, in the west of the country. Quite, accidentally, я оказался в обществе одного молодого учёного. Он оживлённо рассказывал о юге, где провёл свой отпуск. Travels were his passion. He visited many interesting places in Russia and abroad.

Saying good-bye to all, he decided to ask a question to the silent guest, asking, where I come from. Я ответил: «Из Барнаула». – «Из Барнаула?»… недоумённо протянул молодой учёный. «А, где этот Барнаул?»- последовал второй вопрос. «В Алтайском крае», – с удивлением проговорил я. Минутная растерянность. Потом лицо его озарилось улыбкой, и он воскликнул: «А! Азиаты!» Я ответил утвердительно: «Да». Но тут, видимо, растерянность появилась на моём лице. Я никогда раньше не слышал, чтобы нас называли азиатами. Да и представление о них у меня, было совсем иное.

Учёный был прав. Алтай действительно Азиатский материк. Но когда речь заходит об Алтае, наши понятия несколько сужаются до размеров Русского Алтая, as it is called in the literature, whereas Altai - this mountainous country, stretching across Central Asia.

And long-awaited dream come true. Я еду в пределы этого таинственного материка. Командировка в кармане. Рюкзак наполнен до отказа походным снаряжением, в основном кино и фотоаппаратурой с набором оптики. Quite heavy luggage for one person, but without it lost all meaning trip.

While flying in an airplane, thoughts I am overwhelmed. I Greuze amazing meeting with wild animals; весь настрой на кино-фотоохоту. Опыт хождения по горам и тайге имеется и это меня не смущает. Одно беспокойство, как меня встретят.

И встреча наступила… Оптимизм так бурно разыгравшийся, быстро исчез. Как мне представлялось, я познакомлюсь с сотрудниками заповедника, они пригласят меня в одну из экспедиций, отражу их работу в кино и фотоматериалах, they will share the collected materials for local history museum. But in reality it does not happen.

Oleg Andreyevich Makarov, director of the reserve, read confidential letter addressed to me, zadumavshys, turned to the window, withdrawing toward the Teles lake, and it seemed to me, completely forgot about me, and enthusiastically looked marvelous panorama, opened before his eyes. Pause ... Then returning zatyanulas, he said with an air of indifference: "Talk to the deputy of Science. As he decides ". Embarrassing apology, I went to the other door.

«IRIS», – introduced Deputy Director for Science. "What can be helpful?»« Welcome, Edward A. », – and I, silently, reached the same paper. After graduating from the read, He looked at me and asked,, I imagine the work of the reserve and what I know about it. My face he guessed – most superficial. Followed by a long instruction on human behavior in the reserve, Edward A. then advised to get acquainted with the documentation and chronicle Reserve, and personally with the reserve staff. As for the exhibits ,for the museum, they must be purchased in varying composition expedition.

And training started with records dating .... Know, that in the central part of the Asian continent, in the northeast of the Altai Mountains is one of the largest reserves of our country – Altaic. It covers an area from the eastern shores of the lake to the Teles Shapshalskogo and Abakan Range, separating the headwaters of the Ob and Yenisei. Its area is 864 square kilometers,. Основан заповедник в начале 30-х годов, когда в Западной Сибири, на Камчатке, в Уссурийском крае создавалась сеть крупных таёжных заповедников, целью которых было сохранение типичных, характерных для этих районов, участков нетронутой природы и увеличение запасов особо ценных животных, в первую очередь-соболя.

Место, для заповедника было выбрано не случайно, оно удачно сочетает как различные географические ландшафты, так и природно-климатические условия. Объясняется это тем, что лесистые пространства Западно-Сибирской низменности, open northern cold air masses and sharply continental vast deserts of Central Asia creates unique climate and the availability of diverse flora and fauna. Thus Altai State Reserve is intended to keep the most interesting and valuable part of the Altai in the natural state and become a scientific laboratory and genetic "bank" of plants and animals in nature.

Edward explained Andreevych, that each species of wild animals is a carrier and custodian of its own unique value of the gene pool. Nature created it for millions of years. Создать его заново человек не в состоянии, а утрата невосполнима. Обилие же видов растений на Алтае объясняется тем, that the vegetation of this mountainous country was formed in the past in educational processes, neighborhood areas with specific conditions have shaped the entire nature of the Altai and led to an amazing wealth of the plant world.

In Altai there 1800 species. Of these 1200 in reserve, including about fifty, found only in the Altai, fifteen hundred rare and endangered. A large number of species of herbaceous, medicinal plants are widely used in medicine. Many corners of the vast territory of the reserve has not yet examined in detail.

Wildlife reserve is not inferior to the richness and diversity of plant. In the northern part of the reserve are found wooded: sable, brown bear, wolverine, squirrel, burunduk, pika, gornostaй, weasel; in mixed forests - badger, Fox, Speakers, hare. In the southern part of the same, with traces of the influence of alpine fauna of the Mongolian steppes and deserts, Long-tailed ground squirrel inhabits, snow leopard (ounce), gornyi baran (arkhar), snowcock (ular) and a kind of fish osman. Of particular value are ungulates - deer, elk, roe, musk-deer, Siberian Ibex and extremely rare Altai mountain sheep-argali. In the harsh alpine tundra we found a place arctic animals: reindeer, white and ptarmigan.

In the reserve there are about three hundred species and subspecies of birds. Among them - the capercaillie, ryabchik, nutcracker; numerous species of small passerine birds, Kulick, vodoplavayushtie. To the lake and rivers are valuable species of fish: trout, kharius, teletskiy whitefish.

Especially great, the thousands of different types of, the world of invertebrates reserve, still remains because of its diversity of poorly studied compared to vertebrates. Most of them are small in size, not very noticeable, or are hidden lifestyle and not always available human eyes.

Almost everywhere there are microscopic creatures – protozoa, Various types of worms, molluscs, arthropods. Последние в заповеднике особенно многообразны. Без этого множества видов беспозвоночных животных немыслимо было бы существование огромного числа растений и позвоночных животных. Therefore, all these beings enjoy the same measure of protection and conservation, both vertebrates and.

Amphibians and reptiles in the reserve a bit - eight species. Ona tyahoteyut, преимущественно, к прителецким долинам рек и склонам гор.

Исключительным многообразием отличаются млекопитающие, их более 70 видов. Ни один из регионов, соседствующих с Алтайским заповедником, It does not have so many species of animals and birds. И, Despite this, there are species, made to the Red Book - the snow leopard, bar-headed goose, gornyi baran, Altai ular, black stork, osprey, golden eagle and other. The number of these animals is so small, possibility that their recovery is already problematic, and the disappearance of some species may lead to loss of their country, as is the Altai they do not occur.

The study showed climate Altai, that the difference between him and the climate of European Russia is huge. Small amount of vapor in the air make it extremely clear, and the number of sunny days is not inferior to the south. Scientists paid attention to climate, flora which causes edge, its landscape and fauna, and considered, that the climate will play a major role in the formation of man as a physical, and spiritual relationships, and impact on art.

The first step is to get acquainted with the reserve was made. And the second had to do - to offer their services, to participate in one of the expeditions. Но я приехал слишком поздно. Полевой сезон был закончен. Ничего не поделаешь. Придётся ждать до следующего года. Мне предложили ряд маршрутов, и я выбрал самый продолжительный, to the southern borders of the reserve. Here, at an altitude of more than 2000 m has the largest alpine lake - Dzhulukul. The local population, it is called "winged Lake". Around it are scattered over three hundred lakes with muddy banks, zarosshymy osokoy. On such lakes weight birds nests, and on two small rocky islands are peculiar Dzhulukulya rookeries. Best place for a photoshoot will not choose.

The winter passed in correspondence. Specify the dates and time of the route, the necessary equipment.

Now, the long-awaited moment has come. I'm on the basis of a transit reserve among all kinds of boxes, Bale and Peremyotnoye sum with saddles. But to cordon, where horses prepared, was still far. All expedition equipment loaded on the machine. Check appointed after lunch. Warm summer day uplifting. In nochleh ostanovylys near Lake Kureevo. Located in the open, beregu the rivers Bii. Long delayed by the fire, were excited conversation. The mood was calling on the road, и каждый из участников с нетерпением ждал предстоящей встречи с заоблачными далями.

Но произошло непредвиденное… Не буду, умышленно, называть члена нашей команды, that I should be on the lake Dzhulukul, because he was an ichthyologist. Beseduâ the campfire, he suddenly began to complain of severe headache. Pryshlos prybehnut k first aid kit. К середине ночи у него головные боли перешли к боли в сердце. И опять аптечка пригодилась – сменили лекарство. О сне все позабыли. By four o'clock in the morning our sick pain abruptly changed its direction and moved into the abdomen. And here nor what medicines have not helped.

Hastily assembled, стали искать в ближайшем селе врача. Нашли женщину акушерку, и попросили её оказать какую либо помощь. Но она наотрез отказалась, заявив, что ей срочно нужно подоить корову и отправить в стадо. Poka she DOYLE weeds, ate our patient was on his feet. Podoiv weeds and yard with EE vыgnav, it only took our patients. After examining him, she exclaimed with horror: "Oh, synochky, rather vezite him to the hospital. The approach than appendicit ».

Urgently return to Turochak. We were fortunate. At that time the attendant physician

was surgeon. Here at the hospital yard, мы ещё не успели прийти в себя от замешательства, as we reported, that the operation was successful. We will delay a little longer, It would have been fatal. I thought with horror: in whatever situation we find ourselves, случись это неделей позже… С подавленным настроением пришлось возвращаться на базу.

Но, как говорится: «Нет худа – без добра». В заповеднике чуткие люди. Успокоив меня, they offered ichthyological expedition replaced by botanical. And I readily agreed.

The head of the botanical expedition was Lydia D. Marina, and the survey route was selected river basin and its tributaries Kokshov Kotagach, Dыryah and Tuzaktu. Lydia Dmitrievna molodaya, fragile, beautiful woman, shy and soft voice explained to me, что растительный мир заповедника делится на три пояса: степной, лесной и альпийский, или, как говорят, гольцовый, расположенный выше границы леса и начинающийся от 1800 -2000 метров над уровнем моря и выше. The share accounted for about alpine tundra 60 percent of the total reserve area. Goltsova area is less well studied and therefore is of greatest interest.

Таким образом, our path lay on the Abakan Range. Экспедиция вышла в составе пяти человек: Лида Марина, Геннадий Красников – лесник, двое студентов из Москвы и я. Students were sent for an internship and have been helped in collecting herbarium Lida. Gennady Leonidovich as a conductor and I, для проведения фотосъёмки и хроникальной киносъёмки. Срок для работы экспедиции был отведён небольшой, но сам маршрут предполагался интересным и сложным.

А сложность состояла в следующем: walking in the forest is not a walk for mushrooms. Even moving, it can hardly be called: wade through the thick vegetation, which is above the human growth, piles of old trees, many rocky Bohm along rivers. Feet constantly wet even in dry weather. This is a characteristic of the Altai Mountains, where not only the many rivers, but many streams, which should be overcome to wade. Even more difficult to move around placers large and small stones, are overgrown with grass. That and look podvernesh leg. Promotion of this kind, requires vigilance. Mountain pose many dangers. Let's consider one more thing: poor shoulders, as soon as they can withstand the severity of the backpack.

Complex proved himself herbarium collection. As it turned out, necessary plant, not grow in the most suitable locations.

Spring was a protracted, and, as a result, in the forest was almost no berries. But the "harvest" was plentiful mosquitoes. Was not from them and rescue at height above 2500 meters. It is difficult to imagine - the sun shines brightly, you are above the clouds and a swarm of mosquitoes ...

In our prison, we were rewarded with an excess of beauty seen. Truly, boundless charm of nature. It was worth to overcome hard tops, once to see and feel, as the world opens up a bird's-eye. Standing on one of the vertices of the watershed Abakan Range. The origins of rivers opposite pools: реки Оби и реки Енисея, сходятся почти вплотную. По склонам многих вершин лежит в течении всего лета, пятнами плотный снег. И вот перед глазами необычное зрелище: все эти беспорядочные гребни хребта, with patches of snow and ground Lakes, resemble the vast sea, застывшее в разгар шторма. Greatness picture attached clouds, strongly twisted and through which the sun casts a shadow spots.

Now gone out of use, and survived only in the literature, the local name for this area Abakan ridge and it sounded very exotic: Kohl - Taiga. Translated from the Altai language "stake (Kel)» – озеро, море; «тайга» – гольцы, высокие горы, above the forest zone. Overall combined work - sea loaches.

In the evening, our eyes opened an unusual pattern. No sooner had the sun to catch the horizon, as the moon rose, as bright and the same huge, that is one size with the sun. Two of these lights are located on the same level, Word «Eye skies» smotreli us. The feeling, we experienced, words is impossible to convey.

Ahead of us we are waiting for new surprises. We were just lucky. We have repeatedly met with reindeer. Dream, Many employees of the reserve. Deer resting peacefully on snow patches in most rocks. Abundance of mosquitoes, bites which are very vulnerable to deer, forced them to seek refuge in the snow. А, to get a good shot, I Gennady, leaving the other participants in the shelter, had to sneak up on the rocks, undetected, with bated breath, nearer to the place, where deer rested. Some of these, managed to get closer to ten - thirty meters.

The next time we saw no less interesting picture. A small herd of deer calmly rested on the snow, and close, казалось, More calmly ate grass bears.

This phenomenon, we met again, Only instead of the deer were deer. И, everytime, желая получить снимок, so had to come near, to find yourself between "neighbors" and not to be seen. Расстояние в километры мы преодолевали часами. Our efforts were not in vain - our luggage replenished interesting movies and photos.

Particularly interesting were the meetings with the Bears. To one of the bears we come to 12 Steps, but he continued calmly eating grass. Hearing the clatter of camera, he hurried off. Another bear, after a long pursuit, removed as well from close range. In other cases, хозяева тайги убегали от нас, но самым интересным было то, что как только мы заканчивали преследование и отходили от места обитания медведя, there is bound to appear as the second, which we did not notice. And sometimes, it was not clear, for someone who hunts: we bears or they us.

In the evenings around the campfire sharing their impressions of the previous day. But I was most interested in the meaning of the work researcher and forester - observer. Days later explained to me, that of foresters and researchers in a special reserve fund receives thousands of cards, which record the results of all observations. This information helps identify patterns of various phenomena and their fluctuations, and after handling the material collected by zoologists, botanists, meteorologists and other services, data which supplement "Chronicle of Nature". Materials, collected therein, widely used by specialists in various fields of national economy: game wardens, foresters, agronomists and all those, whose work involves the use of natural resources.

Summer is the busiest season, particularly to botanists. Much to catch: register timing of flowering, emergence of seeds, measure the harvest of wild berries, estimate the harvest of mushrooms and pine nuts, and more, more.

During the expedition,, was collected interesting material, which winter in the laboratory will be processed, that will help to identify the species composition of the area of ​​higher plants, their geographical distribution in it. Предполагается и составить карту распространения видов растений в заповеднике.

Общение с Геннадием Красниковым, лесником заповедника, было для меня эстетическим наслаждением. Basic knowledge of natural history, behaviors and povadok zhivotnыh, the ability to walk in the mountains by impassable taiga, no trails, can not be compared with any, read the book. Then, how to work it, constantly fraught with severe and dangerous tests.

Да, tests await each, who neglect to care or simply do not have experience in unusual circumstances. And not everyone can withstand, but the people reserve workers hardy, experienced with great good-hearted and selfless friendship.

I look at the Lido Marina - this young fragile woman and think: she would have her little daughter is, and she rocks, like a mountain goat climbs, in search of rare plants. Thereby finding satisfaction in their work. A head does not come out of the case, for her that almost ended tragically.

Just before the exit to the barrens, us by damming rivers Dyrâh, width 15 – 20 meters, but rough and cascades going down. Coming, if I may say so, along the shore, found at one site tree, perekinutoe berega village of bereg. Big and wide tree, time and water was polished. In reliability crossing there was no doubt. Securing one end of the rope for the next standing tree, Gennady passed to the other side, but on the other side of the trees was not near. wrapped, другой конец верёвки вокруг себя и упёршись ногами в камни, образовал, таким образом, перила.

Первым перешёл я. Лида должна была последовать за мной. Оказавшись на другом берегу, я взял наизготовку кинокамеру, решив снять момент Лидиной переправы. 'm Panorama by quickly going down the river and eventually the top of the block I bring to the log. My intention was to remove the thundering river, and above it on the log, cautiously walking legs. And suddenly ... I see in the frame, Lida, slides off the logs in this thread. Fraction of a second even rented automatically. Recoiling from the camera, see unpleasant picture: torn from logs, s Backpack for plečami, She kept one hand on the rope right, which sagged under the weight of, she herself waist-deep in water in the maelstrom of a revolving. Two of our satellites in disarray, Gennady barely restrained tension ropes. One hope for me, and I, as squire stand hung cameras. Thought works instantly - rather get rid of the burden of.

Abruptly, разом срываю с себя все фотоаппараты, но в спешке зацепил и штормовку, которая закрыла мне лицо, а ремни фотоаппаратуры обвились вокруг шеи. С ужасом вспоминаю, какие в этот момент, владели мною мысли… Освободившись от плена собственной нерасторопности, я бросился к Лиде. Она продолжала висеть в том же положении и улыбалась. Apparently my confusion, It caused it fun, and do not fear for their lives.

Two of our companion stayed on the left bank in the camp, and the three of us we had made a long reconnaissance. After a few steps, and before he could feel what happened, they saw a small hill maraluhu, которая внимательно нас рассматривала. Я перевожу затвор в фотоаппарате с телеобъективом, но чувствую, что что-то заело, маралуха ждать не стала. Так остались мы без интересного фотокадра. I look at the device, and the lid is open and torn perforation. After the incident,, I did not have time to look at the condition of their equipment. And Lida, looking at me, He said with a smile: "The reserve is to be ready for anything". Came the words did not need comments.

Дальнейшее продвижение по заповедному краю позволило экспедиции собрать интересный ботанический материал. Встречи с медведями не прекращались. Сытые, they constantly walked around our tents. Not all participants to react calmly. But the other option we had. And no matter the complexity of movement, nor torrential rains - the mass remained the most beautiful experiences.

And now, I would like to talk about acquaintance with Edward A. Iris. Scientist - ornithologist, who has lived for many years in the Reserve and explore many of its corners. Communication with this person, It made me interested in his scientific research. In the process of working together, even for a long time watching the man, proniknesh not always in the mystery of his scientific passions. It requires prolonged contact. Видимо, this is not enough, need friendship, real man.

In a frank interview, Edward A. confessed to me, he just born biologist. В пять лет у него уже была книга Альфреда Брэма. А в 13 – 14 лет, отец подарил ему ружьё и он стал бродить по болотам и лесам. В это же время, был приобретён и фотоаппарат, ставший спутником на всю жизнь. С 7 – 8 класса начал участвовать во многих биологических олимпиадах, проводимых Томским университетом, что и предопределило, его поступление в данный вуз.

Успешно закончив университет, It begins its work the head of department of nature in Biysk Local Lore Museum of The. Bianchi, where there have been fundamental changes, influenced on the fate of the future scientist.

В музейной библиотеке оказался двухтомник знаменитого орнитолога России П.П.Сушкина « Птицы Алтая». In 1912 – 1914 годах, этот учёный, проехал через Туву, Монголию, Казахстан, Алтай и описал более восьми тысяч птиц; More than two thousand only in the south - east of the Altai. Here are the lines from this book, where he describes the area, now existing reserve: "There are some areas, who represent us full of "terra incognita"; avifauna is quite investigated, and we can judge it only by analogy with the neighboring parts of the country ... So unexplored edge is primarily the highlands east of Lake Teletskoye and Chulyshman ",ru.

Вот эти строчки и задели его тогда за живое. «Терра инкогнито» … Неизвестная земля!.. А потом, начались будни, экспедиции и так четыре лета подряд. Всё для того, чтобы « терра» перестала быть « инкогнито».

В отличии от знаменитого биолога, который только описывал птиц, работа шла в стационарных условиях. Collected collections of birds come to Biysk Local Lore Museum, sent to the Tomsk State University and the University of Moscow - for the reference collection of birds around the world. In a very short period of time it published many articles and a dozen scientific papers.

The need for direct contact with nature, Edward A. leads to the decision to work in the reserve.

It starts a thorough study: where and what has? We investigate the most difficult alpine areas, higher than 3000 meters above sea level. And here is an interesting feature has been found: the same species of birds, at high altitude, lays fewer eggs, than on flat areas, and in measuring the volume of eggs, скорлупа легко трескалась, то есть оказалась менее прочной. Это явление заставило обратить на себя внимание.

Пришлось изучить большое количество литературы, чтобы найти ответ, Factors like high altitude affect the viability of birds. In scientific terminology, It had to find, how is the adaptation of birds at high altitudes. There was no answer. So there was a problem, previously unnoticed by anyone, which served as the impetus for her study. It was necessary to identify patterns, and then compare, in fairness, с другими высокогорными районами страны.

Now, последовали экспедиции на Памир, Тянь–Шань, Кавказ, плато Путарана, чтобы имея другие параметры, обнаружить приспособляемость к горам.

In the study of organisms to adapt to the conditions of mountainous countries, the birds are of special interest, since in the course of evolution, they have mastered the air and neither any other vertebrates have acquired the ability to reach a height of more 10 thousand meters, где они способны находится в специфических условиях.

Специфичность условий в высокогорье слагается из комплексного действия на организм птиц из ряда факторов: солнечной радиации, humidity and the temperature difference in large ranges, air ionization, atmospheric electricity. In conditions of high notes is extremely low salinity water, повышенная радиация. Всё это проявляется на биохимических и физиологических процессах в организме птиц, на поведении и распространении в горах на различных широтах и в различные сезоны года.

Дикие птицы более устойчивы к низкому парциальному давлению кислорода, чем млекопитающие и достигается это, по – видимому, благодаря сердечно – сосудистым и дыхательным особенностям.

Изучение адаптации организмов к существованию в экстремальных условиях, It represents one of the most relevant biological problems, interest which is particularly enhanced by the success of Space Biology, with the development of the territories lying in the high latitudes and deserts, or at high altitudes in mountainous countries.

At the end of the story Edward A. summed up: « Знание закономерностей развития природы, позволяет проникнуть в её глубины, чтобы не потерять наследие дикой природы».

В последние годы своей жизни, Эдуард Андреевич заведовал кафедрой биологии в Алтайском государственном университете. И в эти самые годы, у нас с ним, была последняя экспедиция в Заполярье, которую возглавлял профессор, Doctor of Geographical Sciences Alexis Maloletko. On the spacious plateau Putaran, within Hantayskogo reservoir, I was lucky again, в полевых условиях общаться с полюбившемся мне человеком.

По результатам экспедиции Эдуард Андреевич защитил докторскую диссертацию, и вскоре, его не стало.

A.Poznyakov

Full member of the Geographical Society of the USSR, Заслуженный работник культуры РФ.